Tales of a Sustainable Fishmonger: Catching up with Dirk Fucik
This article is from the archives, originally published in Summer 2010.
Dirk Fucik got hooked on fishing when he was a kid in Wilmette. He cut his teeth selling fish at Burhop’s, a premiere Chicago retail seafood chain and then ventured out on his own in 2003 with Dirk’s Fish and Gourmet Shop in Lincoln Park. The display cases are filled with fresh, sustainable fish and seafood– so many choices that what to buy that can be a daunting decision. He earned the reputation around town as Chicago’s best fishmonger; so if you can’t decide, Dirk or his staff can help. Whether you catch him behind the counter or at the grill he fires up in the parking lot outside his store on Saturdays, he just loves to talk fish. He shares his story and offers up a recipe and grilling tips to Edible Chicago.
Dirk, in his own words:
Some of my earliest memories of fishing on the Great Lakes was growing up in Wilmette and going smelt fishing off the pier at Gilson Park. There would be a hundred people fishing with gill nets, seine nets, dip nets and even hand nets, everyone catching smelt. We would clean them as we caught ‘em, bread ‘em and fry ‘em up, crispy crunchy right on the pier. It was a great time and wonderful memories with friends and family.
I remember one day walking the beach and the salmon were in close to shore chasing smelt in the shallows. I waded in and was able to knock one out of the water with my hands and tackle it on the beach. I took my shoelace off and threaded it through its gills. We proceeded to walk out on the pier where there were a bunch of guys fishing for salmon. When they asked me what I used for bait I told them I caught it by hand. They were amazed and said “I spent $200 on my fishing gear and you’re catching them by hand?” It was great!
Our Saturday grilling out in the parking lot “hooks” many a passerby who are sampling Chicago’s most wonderful fish and seafood on a sunny day, having fun talking to friends (customers). Does it get any better than that? I keep trying to tell people I’m really working! My biggest problem is talking to people too much when I’m cooking. I make them try fish that might be new to them. I usually say “Eat it first and then tell me what you think of it.” I’ve been doing Asian Carp, it’s been all over the news, but people eat it all over the world. Carp fishing is fun. It’s very mild; I did it with a teriyaki marinade.
Now if you want to talk more local fish for grilling, there is lake whitefish, lake trout and rainbow trout. Coho and king salmon caught by recreational fisher people are excellent on the grill, but the downside is that we can’t sell that fish. You have to catch it yourself (if you consider that a downside).
Fish: The Original Fast Food
The easiest way to grill a piece of fish is to first marinate it for 30 to 45 minutes at room temperature. We have six homemade marinades at the shop – my fav is tequila chili for salmon.
Get the grill very hot (400 to 500°F). Place fish flesh side down on a hot grill, gas or charcoal, for about 2 to 3 minutes. Carefully flip over to the skin side down. The skin will protect the meat from getting burned while it cooks.
On this second side, cook fish for 6 to 10 minutes depending on the thickness of the fish.
When done, the meat will slide right off the skin and the skin will be stuck to the grill. It should come off the grill a touch rare where it will keep cooking and be perfect when it hits your plate!
You could also use a favorite rub or even blackening spice for grilled fish. Right now I’m loving Gary Wiviott’s BBQ Rub, which can be found ate Spice House. It’s hot, spicy and goes well with tuna, salmon or swordfish.
For more information:
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Chicago, IL
